点图进入相册
大豆蛋白纤维是以天然大豆为主要原料，利用生物工程技术，把豆粕中的球蛋白提取提纯，并使提纯的球蛋白改变空间结构配制成一定浓度的蛋白纺丝液，经熟成后，用湿法纺丝工艺纺成单纤1.27—3.3dtex的丝束，通过化学交联稳定纤维的性能，在经过卷曲、热定型、切断，生产出各种长度规格的纺织高档纤维。是目前全世界最具舒适感的纤维原材料，又被称为人造羊绒。它保持了天然纤维棉的优良吸湿性、羊绒的柔滑性和真丝的优雅光泽，成为新的纺织服用纤维，进行针织或针织加工成不同风格的新型高档面料。通过印染后整理技术，能保留大豆蛋白纤维的所有特征，获得外观华贵、色泽鲜艳、色感柔和、弹性好、舒适性好、具有保健作用的功能性纺织品。
由于该纤维是新型纤维，对其染色加工工艺国内众多专家学者进行了很多的实验和探讨。但大多对使用的染料是集中在化学合成染料的研究上。就目前研究的结果看，还没有一种染料和染色方法对该纤维最合适，各位专家说法莫衷一是。
由于该纤维是新型纤维，对其染色加工工艺国内众多专家学者进行了很多的实验和探讨。但大多对使用的染料是集中在化学合成染料的研究上。就目前研究的结果看，还没有一种染料和染色方法对该纤维最合适，各位专家说法莫衷一是。
笔者日前使用天然植物染料地瓜叶对大豆纤维进行了染色实验，本文就实验结果进行探讨。
一、 前处理
1.退浆
大豆纤维和纱线的前处理主要去除纤维、纱线制造加工中添加的上油剂、抗静电剂、润滑剂、色素等杂质。
凡上有浆料的织物，需先进行退浆，可用酶退浆或碱剂、氧化剂退浆。因大豆纤维不耐浓烧碱，故只能使用天然皂粉进行洗涤。
酶退浆工艺：
BF7658淀粉酶2~6G/L
盐（元明粉）2~3G/L
温度：55~60℃，时间：60分钟
2.大豆纤维纱与针织物的精练和漂白
（1）氧漂（中深色）
纯碱3-6g/l
30%的双氧水10-30g/l
硅酸钠或其他双氧水稳定剂2-4g/l
室温升温至90-95℃，处理60min。
为保持大豆纤维天然特性，本实验中不采用其他化学的助剂，并不使用荧光增白剂增白，处理完毕后颜色为大豆纤维的本色---浅黄色。
二、 染色
本次染色使用天然地瓜叶提取液做染料，采用天然矿物质做媒染剂，分别使用不同的媒染方法做实验。浴比1：50，PH值5，水温40度下布料，升温到60度时保温30分钟，中途加食盐促染固色，水洗，自然晾干。
四块布料最后颜色分别是草绿、黄绿、墨绿和豆绿。
根据和同时染色的全棉、绢丝对比，大豆纤维的上染率比其他纤维高，色泽深。
本次实验未对大豆纤维做柔软处理，如果要做柔软，也只能选择有机硅类柔软剂。
三、 洗涤
要用中性洗涤液，大豆蛋白纤维面料属酸性，因此，洗内衣要用中性洗涤液，最好用天然皂粉，有植物洗涤剂最好。不能使用含生物酶的洗涤剂，也可以用丝毛洗涤剂。
四、 其他注意事项
1、浸泡：先浸泡３分钟，再轻轻揉搓。
2、脱水：洗完后用干毛巾将衣服轻轻压出水分，表面整理平整搭在衣架上即可，切忌用力拧。
3、晾晒：要晾在通风处，避免阳光直射。
4、熨烫温度控制在1200。
植物染料由于类型不同，染色工艺会有所差异，应根据不同植物染料的性能调整工艺。本次是采用植物染料对大豆纤维染色进行的一次尝试，也欢迎更多专家参入实验、探讨。
作者：常州云卿纺织品有限公司 总工程师 黄荣华
On the use of vegetable dyes on the soybean protein fiber dyeing pile fabrics of the experiment
Soybean protein fiber is a natural soybean as the main raw materials, use of biological engineering technology, the extraction of soybean meal in the purification of myosin and myosin purified preparation to change the spatial structure of the protein concentration of spinning solution, as well as, the use of wetlands spinning process into a single fiber spinning of the 1.27-3.3dtex tow, the stability of cross-linked by chemical fiber, after crimping, heat setting, cutting, production of various specifications of the length of high-grade textile fibers. Is the sense of the world's most comfortable fiber raw materials, also known as the man-made cashmere. It maintained a fine natural fiber hygroscopicity of cotton, cashmere and silk is smooth and elegant luster, taking a new textile fiber, knitting or knitting to processing of different styles into a new type of high-grade fabrics. Through the printing and dyeing and finishing technology, soybean protein fiber to retain all the features, access to luxurious look, bright color, a sense of soft color, good elasticity, comfort, and has the role of functional health-care textiles.
As the fiber is a new type of fiber dyeing processing technology for its large number of domestic experts and scholars to carry out a lot of experiments and exploration. But in most cases, the use of the dye is concentrated in the chemical synthesis of dyes research. On the results of the present study, no dyes and dyeing methods most suitable for the fiber, rather than consensus of the experts say.
I few days ago, the use of natural plant dye leaves of sweet potato soybean fiber staining experiments conducted in this paper to discuss the experimental results.
First, pre-treatment
1. Desizing
Soybean fiber and yarn to remove the first major fiber, yarn manufacturing process to add the oil, antistatic agents, lubricants, pigments and other impurities.
Where there is pulp fabric, need to be conducted desizing, desizing enzyme can be used or alkaline agents, oxidizing agents desizing. Soybean fiber intolerance due to caustic soda concentration, it can only use natural soap for washing powder.
Enzyme desizing process:
BF7658 amylase 2 ~ 6G / L
Salt (Sodium Sulfate) 2 ~ 3G / L
Temperature: 55 ~ 60℃, time: 60 minutes
2. Soybean fiber yarn and knitted fabric of the scouring and bleaching
(1) oxygen bleaching (in dark)
Soda 3-6g / l
30% of hydrogen peroxide 10-30g / l
Sodium hydrogen peroxide stabilizer or other 2-4g / l
Warming to room temperature 90-95℃, processing 60min.
In order to maintain the natural characteristics of soybean fiber, the experiments do not use other chemical additives, fluorescent whitening agent does not use whitening, after dealing with the color of soybean fiber for --- light yellow color.
Second, staining
Staining using the sweet potato leaf extract natural dyes do, using natural mineral matchmaker agent, respectively, using a different method of mordant dyeing experiments. Liquor ratio 1:50, PH value of 5, temperature 40 degrees under the fabric, up to 60 degree heat for 30 minutes, add salt to promote the middle of fixing dye, wash, dry naturally.
Finally, 4 fabric colors are grass green, green, dark green and green beans.
t the same time, in accordance with and dyeing cotton, silk contrast, soybean fiber uptake than other high-fiber, deep color.
The experiments do not soft soybean fiber, if to do a soft, they can only choose silicone softener category.
Third, washed
Use neutral detergent solution, soybean protein fiber fabric is acidic, therefore, use neutral detergent washing liquid underwear, the best natural soap powder, the best detergent plants. Can not use a detergent with enzymes, detergents can also be used Silky.
Other Notes
1, water: the first three minutes of immersion, and then gently rub.
2, dehydration: after finished clothes with a towel, gently dry out the water pressure, surface finishing on the formation can take in the racks, should not have the force screw.
3, Drying: To dry in well-ventilated place, avoid direct sunlight.
4, Ironing temperature control in 1200.
Because different types of vegetable dyes, dyeing will be differences, should be based on the performance of different vegetable dyes adjustment process. The vegetable dyes used on soybean fiber staining the first attempt, also welcomed the participation of experts to experiment more to explore.
Author: Changzhou Yun-Qing Huang Ronghua Textile Co., Ltd. Chief Engineer
E-mail: [email protected]