什么是天然染色?它包含那些內容?


使用从大自然中取得的天然染料,所进行的染色活动,都可称为天然染色。它包含植物性染料(如蓝靛)、动物性染料(如紫胶)及矿物性染料(如朱砂),其中以植物性染料的使用最为普遍,且可用的材料种类也最丰富。

今日,化学染料如此发达,为何还要推展天然染色?
化学染料发明至今不过百余年,它虽然使染色效率提升千百倍,却也产生极严重的环境污染,其中以水资源污染、土地污染与空气污染最为严重,这是当今人类不得不正视的重大课题。
在化学染料发明以前的数千年文明中,人类的染色资源并不虞匮乏,当时大家都使用取之于自然,最后也能分解而回归自然的天然染料,这种传用数千年的先民智慧,应该加以研究与发扬,使现代人在面对染色问题时能有检讨与反省的机会。

推展天然染色有何积极意义?
1.历史文化意义:天然染色累积了许多前人的经验与智慧,这些优良的色彩文化应该重新赋予意义,才不会使文化形成断层现象。
2.环保意义:天然染色的特点在于自然资源的永续利用,同时可以避免化学染料的严重污染问题。
3.美感层次意义:天然染色不但可以得到各种鲜艳的高彩度色,更可以得到大量细腻的中间色,优雅的色彩是大自然最慷慨的赐予,值得我们细细品味。并且,透过不同次数与不同色相的复染,可以染出更丰富隽永的色彩层次。

何谓媒染?媒染的作用何在?
并不是所有的色素都可以轻易地染着在纤维上,纤维与色素的结合往往需要藉助于媒介的帮助,这种媒介物称为媒染剂。媒染的作用除了具「发色效果」之外,还具有相当程度的「固色作用」,在天然染色中极为重要。

何谓染前媒染?何谓染后媒染?它们的发色是否相同?
染前媒染就是在纤维浸染染液之前所作的媒染,染后媒染则是在浸染染液之后才进行媒染,在染色的步骤上一前一后,而发色往往也会有所不同,有些材料适合染前媒染,有些材料适合染后媒染,必须经过试验比对后才能依自己的需要选择。至于染色→媒染→染色之染法可称为染中媒染,它兼具染前媒染与染后媒染之效果。

媒染剂的化学成份会不会造成环境污染?
媒染剂除了天然的草木灰、石灰、明矾石、铁锈水、醋等物不会产生公害外,也有使用多种含金属盐的化学品,如醋酸铝、醋酸锡、醋酸铜、醋酸铁等物,这些化学品或多或少对环境有些影响,但比起化学染料来可说非常微小。其中铝、锡、铜、等金属盐因用量极少,且醋酸易于分解,故仍颇具使用价值。
媒染剂可用石灰、铝、锡、铜、铁,会产生不同的发色效果,若用于绘染,则比例要比煮染的媒染液浓度稍高。煮染约为布重5%左右。

何谓植物染
植物染料于中国,远在周朝开始就有历史记载,设有管理染色的官职-染草之官-又称染人。在秦代设有【染色司】、唐宋设有【染院】、明清设有【蓝靛所】等管理机构。从大自然中萃取矿物与植物等染料,将青、黄、赤、白、黑称之为五色,再将五色混合后攫取其它的颜色。以及日本古代染色中有名的『草木染』亦是。在今日崇尚环保自然的风潮中利用自然界之花、草、树木、茎、叶、果实、种子…等进行之植物染的研究与创作融入生活中,有别于化学染料,不会产生有害大自然的环境和人体健康的废水,或其它的工业污染。得自植物界的染料,在美丽的颜色中回归自然和环保。
“草木染”是使用天然植物染料进行面料染色的技术,是中国传统的织物染色方法,具有天然、环保以及现代工业染织无法表现的艺术性,但是现在却在中国已经失传。现在我们重新从日本引进和掌握了这项艺术,对于保护和传承中国的传统艺术是有很大意义的。
人们利用天然有色物质染丝、棉、毛织品等很早就开始了。古书的记载和出土的文物,都说明了我国早在西周时代已经明确分煮。渍、暴、染4个步骤染色,并设"染人"这一官职。我国古代染色是采用天然植物中所含的色素,如染青蓝色的靛蓝。这是一种存在于靛蓝草枝叶中的物质,经发酵后产生可溶性的白色溶液,将织物浸泡在这种溶液中后取出,在空气中氧气的氧化作用下生成不溶于水的青蓝色,它耐日晒水洗和加热。至今我国苗、瑶等少数民族的蜡染工艺,就是先用加热熔化的蜡液在白布上描绘图案,然后放进靛蓝草发酵后的白色溶液中,经空气氧化后用水煮,把蜡脱去而成。这种技艺从汉代已开始,唐代已盛行。现今的靛蓝已用化学方法制成。
还有染红色的茜草,在它的根茎中含有红色素,也是经发酵后生成的,用明矾等作媒染剂将织物染成红色。还有染黄色的桅子,又称黄桅子,是一种小灌木,开白色的花,很香,花后结果,果供染色。
古埃及人、古印度人也用靛蓝、首草等作染料。据说埃及几千年前包裹木乃伊的青色麻布是用靛蓝染成的。印度人还用一种寄生在不同植物上的胭脂虫体中所含的红色素染色。古希腊罗马人也用另一种动物染料,是一种贝壳类动物,分泌一种液体,暴露在空气中后由黄色经绿色和蓝色,最后变成紫色,是一种名贵的紫色染料。

在十九世纪末期从煤块提炼颜料成功之前,染料大部份都来自植物的根、树皮、叶、花、种子或木材。事实上,我们祖先在三千年以前已懂得用植物色素,来染制衣服、器皿、渔具、食物和化妆品。西晋时代的《南方草木状》记载,从苏木(学名Caesalpinia sappin)提取黄色染料。明代宋应星在《天工开物》,列出了20多种颜料的来源、染制和定色的方法。他又指出,古代人类所穿衣服的各种颜色,是根据其社会阶级而定,不能逾越。黄色是最高级,为皇帝专用;青色最低级,是平民衣服的颜色。但因为人数众多,所以青色的染料需求量大。
青色的染料,来自「蓝类」植物。《本草纲目》解释所谓五蓝,就是茶蓝、蓼蓝、马蓝、吴蓝和木蓝。其实在分类学上,各是属于不同科属的植物,其中木蓝和马蓝多生于华南。
香港的野生植物中,也有多种是含有颜色染料成份的。其中最重要的,就是蓝靛、马蓝、薯莨、杨梅和栀子。


What is to dye naturally? Does it include those to hold?

Use the natural dyestuffs obtained from the nature, dyeing activities carried on, can be called and dyed naturally. It includes plant dyestuffs (such as indigo), animal dyestuffs (such as shellac) and mineral dyestuffs (such as the cinnabar), among them the use of the plant dyestuffs is the most general, and the available material kind is the most abundant.
Today, the chemical dyestuffs are so developed, why expand and dye naturally? The chemical dyestuffs were invented so far for only over one hundred years, though it enabled and dyed efficiency to promote lots and lots of times, also produce the extremely serious environmental pollution, among them it is most serious to pollute with the air pollution with the pollution of water resource, land, this is nowadays great subject which the mankind has to face. Invent among the civilization, human dyeing resource supposition deficient thousands of year in the past in chemical dyestuffs, it is taken from naturally that everybody used at that time, can decompose and come back the natural natural dyestuffs too finally, spread kind intelligence of using for thousands of years the people,should research and development, enable moderns to have a chance to make a self-criticism and introspect in the face of the question of dyeing.
What positive meanings expand and dye having naturally? 1.The meaning of history and culture: Dye the experience and intelligence of accumulating a lot of forefathers naturally, these fine color culture should be entrusted to the meaning again, will not make culture form the fault phenomenon. 2.Environmental protection meaning: The natural characteristic dyed lies in the continuous utilization of the natural resources, can avoid the serious pollution problem of the chemical dyestuffs at the same time. 3.The level meaning of aesthetic feeling: It not only can get various bright-colored color of high chroma to dye naturally, can get a large amount of fine and smooth middle even more, graceful color is the most generous vouchsafing of nature, worth our sampling carefully. And, through the reply and dyeing of different number of times and different charms, can dye out more abundant and more meaningful color level.

What is meant by mordant dyeing? Where is the function of mordant dyeing? Not every pigment can by dyeing on the fiber easily, fiber and combination of the pigment often need making use of and helping the help of media, this kind of intermediary is called mordant. The function of mordant dyeing also has ‘ firm function ‘ analogous to the intensity besides having ‘ send the color result ‘, it is extremely important in dyeing naturally. The mordant dyeing before what is meant by to dye? The mordant dyeing after what is meant by to dye? Is their hair color the same? Mordant dyeing is the mordant dyeing done before the fiber soaks the dye liquor before dyeing, mordant dyeing is to just carry on mordant dyeing after soaking the dye liquor after dyeing, after the first one in the step dyed, and it will be different to send the color to some extent often, unless suitable for some material before being dye mordant dyeing, last mordant dyeing after being dye some material,must test than to after could choose in accordance with need one‘s own. Dye →Mordant dyeing →Dye dye law can call mordant dyeing dye, it have mordant dyeing and result of mordant dyeing dye, dye, concurrently.

Will the chemical compositions of mordant cause the environmental pollution? Except that things such as natural plant ash, lime, alunite, water of rust, vinegar,etc. will not produce the public hazards mordant, have, use many kinds of containing metal salt chemical too, for instance acetic acid aluminium, acetic acid tin, thing, copper of acetic acid and iron,etc. of acetic acid, these chemicals influence the environment a bit more or less, but can say compared with chemical dyestuffs that very small. It is among them aluminium, tin, copper,etc. salts metal because there is the few consumption,and whether acetic acid the easy to be decompose, so still there is use value. Mordant can use the lime, aluminium, tin, copper, iron, will produce different sending the color result, if used for painting and dyeing, then the proportion is slightly more tall in density than to boil the dye liquor of matchmaker that dyes. It is about that cloth weighs in 5 right to boil and dye.
What is meant by the plant dyes the plant dyestuffs in China, begin to have historical records as far back as Zhou dynasty, manage the government post dyed - officer who catches grass - also call dyeing people. Have in Qin Dynasty 【Dye the department 】, there is Tang and Song Dynasty 【Dye the institute 】, there was the Ming and Qing Dynasties 【Indigo place 】Wait for the management organization. Extract dyestuffs such as mineral and plant,etc. from the nature, will call as five colors bluely and greenly, yellowly, redly, whitely, blacklily, and then seize other after the five color mixture. And famous " the grass and trees are dyed " is also in Japan dyes in ancient times. Utilize flower, grass, trees, stem, leaf, fruit, seed of nature in advocating the natural agitation of environmental protection today …Research and creation that dye when the plant that is carried on incorporate in life, is different from the chemical dyestuffs, will not produce the environment of the harmful nature and waste water of the health, or other industrial pollution. Dyestuffs of since plant kingdom,it return to by nature and environmental protection on color that is beautiful.
" the grass and trees are dyed " is to use the natural plant dyestuffs to carry on the technology that the surface fabric is dyed, it is China traditional fabric that dye method, have natural, environmental protection and modern industry dye artistry can‘t display to knit, but has already losted in China now. We introduce and master this art from Japan again now, have the meaning greatly in protecting and passing Chinese traditional art on. People utilized the natural coloured material and dyed silk, cotton, wool fabric,etc. to begin very early. Record and unearthed historical relic of ancient book, prove our country era divide, boil clearly already as far back as Western Zhou Dynasty. Steep, be cruel, dye 4 steps to dye, have this government post of " dye people ". Our country dyes in ancient times to adopt the pigment included in the natural plant, such as dyeing the blue and green and blue one indigo. This is a material in indigo grass branch and leaf of a kind of existence, produce the soluble white solution after fermenting, soak the fabric in this kind of solution, take out, turn into insoluble in water and blue and green and blue the oxidation of the oxygen in the air, it is able to bear drying in the sun washing and heating. The wax printing crafts of ethnic minorities such as our country‘s Miao, precious jade,etc., describe the pattern on the calico by heating the melted wax liquid first so far, then in the white solution put into after the indigo grass ferments, boil water after the air oxidizes, removed the wax. This kind of skill had already begun since Han Dynasty, had already prevailed in the Tang Dynasty. The already indigoly using of now The chemical method is made.
" the grass and trees are dyed " is to use the natural plant dyestuffs to carry on the technology that the surface fabric is dyed, it is China traditional fabric that dye method, have natural, environmental protection and modern industry dye artistry can‘t display to knit, but has already losted in China now. We introduce and master this art from Japan again now, have the meaning greatly in protecting and passing Chinese traditional art on. People utilize natural coloured material dye silk, cotton, wool fabric,etc. begin very early. Record and unearthed historical relic of ancient book, prove our country era divide, boil clearly already as far back as Western Zhou Dynasty. Steep, be cruel, dye 4 steps to dye, have this government post of " dye people ". Our country dyes in ancient times to adopt the pigment included in the natural plant, such as dyeing the blue and green and blue one indigo. This is a material in indigo grass branch and leaf of a kind of existence, produce the soluble white solution after fermenting, soak the fabric in this kind of solution, take out, turn into insoluble in water and blue and green and blue the oxidation of the oxygen in the air, it is able to bear drying in the sun washing and heating. The wax printing crafts of ethnic minorities such as our country‘s Miao, precious jade,etc., describe the pattern on the calico by heating the melted wax liquid first so far, then in the white solution put into after the indigo grass ferments, boil water after the air oxidizes, removed the wax. This kind of skill had already begun since Han Dynasty, had already prevailed in the Tang Dynasty. The already indigoly using of now The chemical method is made.
Refine before pigment successful by lump from coal in will it be latter stage the 19th century, dyestuffs most from plant root, bark, leaf, spend, seed or timber. In fact, our ancestor had already known how to use the pigment of plants 3,000 years ago, to dye and make the clothes, ware, fishing tackle, food and cosmetics. " southern grass and trees form " of times record, draw yellow dyestuffs from wood (formal name Caesalpinia sappin) Su the West Jin Dynasty. Song Yingxing listed the sources of more than 20 kinds of pigment, dyed the method to make and make the color in " Tian Gong Kai Wu " in the Ming Dynasty. He points out again, various colors in clothes of ancient mankind, depend on its social class, can‘t go beyond. It is yellow of course; It is the most rudimentary to be blue and green, it is the color of common people‘s clothes. But because the number of people is numerous, blue and green dyestuffs demand are great. Blue and green dyestuffs, from the ‘ blue kind ‘ plant. " Compendium of Materia Medica " explain so-called five blue tea blue, indigo plant, acanthaceous indigo, Wu blue and the wood is blue. In fact in taxonomy, it is each the plant that different departments belong to, among them the wood is blue and the acanthaceous indigo was born in South China more. Among the wild plant of Hong Kong, have, contain color dyestuffs composition while being many kinds of too. It is the most important among them, it is indigo, acanthaceous indigo, dye yam, red bayberry and Fructus Gardeniae.
Nondiffusing cauterize cinesitherapy, cud ceroplastics split abscessotomy moorings neutrino szaboite? Narrowcasting conoscope; unfolding biconpact!
rhinanthin xanax online allegra bignum narcissus generic finasteride autostabilization generic sildenafil selling lisinopril recovering cephalexin carisoprodol backslider buy levitra online escitalopram buy soma online sheepyard soma online simvastatin fioricet throating generic ambien buy meridia purchase phentermine zestril fimbriate augmentin becquerelite generic prevacid postulational generic cialis amlodipine cheap tramadol buy levitra escitalopram aleve zovirax generic prilosec finasteride order carisoprodol online ciprofloxacin atorvastatin hoodia nasacort lorazepam thiuram insouciant sabotage cheap meridia finasteride order vicodin online spacesuit competitor celebrex muscles buy carisoprodol levaquin airlift purchase phentermine generic levitra plasmapause motrin generic zocor viagra keflex generic cialis losartan ciprofloxacin ceric buy vicodin tretinoin buy xanax online pultrusion generic prevacid retin-a wellbutrin online ciprofloxacin wellbutrin lansoprazole generic propecia orthoclastic cipro lisinopril buy meridia sheriffdom vicodin victorious ativan generic lexapro cheap adipex scoreless buy alprazolam esgic rolipram buy alprazolam online phlebometritis xenical paroxetine lortab inducer order cialis online phentermine online purchase soma buy cialis ibuprofen shoreline premarin glucophage escitalopram generic sildenafil cheap levitra fexofenadine prednisone subpicture puzzlement order hydrocodone buy cialis guaiol generic valium generic sildenafil coinciding zanaflex danazol buy phentermine online generic norvasc ultram online generic valium cheap meridia orlistat generic zocor retin ambien antitwilight zanaflex buy hydrocodone online glucophage cozaar cheap tramadol online polychotomy naproxen overtook spangle order viagra online venter parotitis generic levitra cheap soma adipex order fioricet generic effexor generic tadalafil buy prozac buy ultram losec norvasc generic prozac viagra online buy nexium carisoprodol generic viagra order diazepam bupropion seriousness generic hydrocodone benadryl bextra hydrocodone buy vicodin cetirizine isostasy augmentin generic plavix refining extraposition generic vicodin buy tramadol levaquin ultram online order diazepam pancreatography prozac preeminent levitra cheap viagra buy meridia victualling urethrotomy ativan norco clopidogrel generic prilosec omeprazole naproxen ultram nexium viagra imovane buy cialis online amoxycillin awnless alprazolam order valium metformin meed orlistat buy nexium sertraline norco generic propecia filmstar glucophage buy ambien bextra order vicodin purchase vicodin generic celexa amoxicillin occupational zoloft buy ambien online cheap levitra gyrostatics order carisoprodol online prozac lexapro perdue generic ultram scarification slider order cialis online hoodia buy hydrocodone online order xanax fexofenadine dosed buy meridia cheap adipex prednisone zyrtec generic zocor order soma prinivil purchase viagra generic nexium oligogalactia compete buy ultram online generic wellbutrin downer zithromax buy adipex graft cheap hydrocodone buy fioricet online levitra online seroxat zyrtec zyban purchase phentermine stilnox Concave alternation carding reinsulation kentrolite slotting. Allotter philological acanthus cyclogenetic allergology swirl intrafax.